Priced at $239.99FUEL PUMP
Relocation
Shelby came to me with a nice Mallory electric fuel pump, however, the previous
owner evidently didn't know anything about electric pumps. He had mounted it
in the engine compartment on the inside fender well, next to the fuel pump regulator
and it was working as a "puller" pump rather than as a "pusher" pump.
Mallory Comp 140 Priced at $239.99
Pumps 140 gallons a minute at a maximum pressure up to 12 lbs.
Anyone who knows anything about electric fuel pumps know they are designed
to function best as a "pusher" not a "puller" pump. Soon after I got Shelby on the
road, I got on it and at the top of 2nd gear it "ran out of gas"! I immediately knew
what the problem was. It seems no-one had ever really driven the car since it had
been restored. Otherwise they would have had the same problem. Thus, the fuel
pump needed to be relocated to the rear of the car.
The idea is to locate the pump as close as possible to the tank and BELOW the
level of the tank, so the initial supply of fuel gravity feeds to the pump, so it doesn't
have to actually suck out the fuel.
PHOTOS COMING
From these photos you can see I have now relocated the electric fuel pump to
function the way it was designed to operate, at it's best. As a "pusher" pump.
The Mallory electric fuel pump is one of the best you can buy but it will only
work well if it is properly located.
Here is Shelby's fuel filter. A quality in-line Mallory fuel filter with
changeable filters.
Sells for
$71.99
Here is the Holly fuel regulator (which smoothes out the flow of fuel and can be
adjusted to provide a constant pressure from 4 1/2 to 9lbs).
Sells for $21.99
Here is the Jeg's (oil filled) fuel pressure gauge and the fuel pressure switch.
Sell for $19.99 
Sells for $35.95
The Fuel Pressure switch is a safety item. If the fuel pressure drops below
the pressure required to operate the NOS system ( a minimum of about 4 lbs of
pressure), it shuts down the NOS system. They say there is nothing worse than
running out of gas when your pumping Nitrous into your motor. It don't like it
and may go BOOM!
Of course I had to use some high pressure BLUE fuel line to stay with my
engine area color scheme.
Fuel pressure is so important, especially when running Nitrous, that it should be
monitored constantly. Therefore, I wanted a Fuel Pressure gauge inside the
cab as well (not just in the engine compartment). For this it takes a special type
of gauge that does not allow fuel inside the cab with you. It is called an
"Isolator" gauge. I ordered mine from Jeg's along with a new matching Tach
to go in my "Shelby Dash Pod". Here is the Fuel Pressure gauge along with
the Isolator (which is mounted in the in the engine compartment). And the new
10,000 RPM Ultra-Lite aluminum Tach. I couldn't find any others I liked with
WHITE faces to match the other Haneline dash gauges, these were as close
as I could get. I think they will look nice once installed.
The Fuel Pressure gauge sells for about $107.95 and the Tach was $88.95.
NOTE: the fuel pressure gauge only comes with the one (inside) braided hose
line, which comes pre-filled with a mixture of 50% water & 50% anti-freeze.
The hose that runs to the fuel connection itself must be purchased separately.
The "Isolator" Fuel Pressure gauge" uses water and anti-freeze in the line
to the Fuel Pressure gauge, to register the needle readings. This eliminates
fuel inside the cab. The dual diaphragm Isolator unit has two diaphragms,
one for the water/anti-freeze and one side is for the fuel.
INSTALLED PHOTOS COMING
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