Doc Hall's 

65 Shelby GT350 (clone)

TREMEC TKO 5 Speed

(updated 3/4/04)

(click to enlarge)

To see my NEW 347 Stroker motor (450 h.p.) I'm installing with this new 5 speed 

GO HERE  

TREMEC TKO 5 speed from Modern Driveline in Ca. (Owner Bruce Couture)

Phone 408-265-0741 or 408-394-3944  E-mail info@moderndriveline.com

Tell Bruce that "Doc" sent you!

This complete package from Modern Driveline included:

* TREMEC TKO 5 Speed trany- $1700.00

* Lakewood Scattershield bellhousing and installation bolts and brackets

# LAK 15200 =$350 thru Modern Driveline  

* Flywheel bolts    $20.00

Plus Ford motor Co. rear transmission support mount E6ZZ6A023B $87.26

Here's the best article I've found so far that I will be following very closely to

this same identical installation. I'll let you know how mine differs and what I

run into. Wish me luck. GO HERE to see it. Thanks to Mike Schlutter (SundanceKid)

If you'd like more information, Mike's email address is SpeedXtreem@hotmail.com

Here's some DRIVELINE info that might be MOST helpful to you. Take a look

http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

Here is my interior gutted, ready to cut the transmission tunnel. See how it is marked for

the cut. Also in the photo on the right shows the OLD hump brace that will be removed

and replaced by two 2" pieces of strap steel for a tunnel support (raising the tunnel higher).

This photo simply shows the tunnel support brace again, from the front angle, which

will be removed and replaced. Also you can see the drain tubes for my A/C unit

coming down from the interior. Looking further to the rear of the car, you'll also

see the driveline Safety Loop. (Actually there are TWO, but one can't be seen in

this photo).

INSTALLATION PROCESS:

Make sure you use a Lakewood Scattershield, there is a difference between installing

a T5 verse a Tremec when it comes to the sizes of bolt holes. The Lakewood

unit seems to work the best.

Why do I want a Scattershield? Just in case mine does this!

We first put the Shelby on jack stands and aligned it from every direction

possible to make sure the entire car was straight and level. This is a very critical step

in the overall installation process to make sure everything that is bolted and welded

into the car is in perfect alignment from the start. If the engine and trany isn't in perfect 

alignment with the frame, suspension and driveline then the car will launch off the

starting line crocked. It might also not track straight at high speeds if out of alignment.

This is especially true of Mustangs since they have such a weak body and frame structure

to begin with and need all the extra bracing that can be added, like the export brace 

and Monte Carlo bar and frame stiffeners. It becomes even more of an issue when 

installing a 600 h.p. motor in a 2850 lb. car like the Mustang.

Above you can see our "trial fitting" package. We used a bare block to attach the scattershield

and trany too it for fitting and making the tunnel alterations, as well as for fabricating the rear

trany mounting bracket. A lot easier to handle and maneuver than a complete engine. As you can

see, we ended up using a Lakewood Scattershield (Red), instead of the (Gold) McLoed 

Scattershield (shown in the above photos) the bolt holes weren't correct in the McLoad unit.

Before installing anything new, first the car itself must be perfectly level. Then the block

must be level, side to side, and ONLY then can you get an exact reading for the proper engine 

and trany angle that the whole assembly must be installed at, for determining how and where

to mount the rear of the trany. I installed mine at 2-3 degrees total.

Here's my aluminum driveshaft with the NEW much larger and heavier duty front YOKE 

installed on it, that matches up with the larger spline in the new Tremec TKO trany.

We also installed the new clutch cable setup and rebuilt my heater box. Here is the new CLUTCH 

CABLE setup from Modern Driveline.

Clutch & brake pedals removed    Clutch cable adapter mounted    Firewall plate for cable

                              (you can enlarge any of the above photos for a better view)

While we were there, I replaced the master cylinder as well and the brake lines from it, just

to make sure everything was in good working order. It was a lot easier to do it now rather

than later. Due to accessibility. 

You'll need to find a PLUG like this one to cover the HOLE where the OLD clutch arm came 

through the firewall, so plug it as I did. 

When we removed the heater box I realized WHY I wasn't able to get any heat out of my heater. 

It appears that when the previous owners had installed the heater they CRIMPED the hot water 

heater hose right behind the heater box, so no water was actually get into the heater DAH! 

In the photo here I had to wire it together so you could see how it was CRIMPED as it

was behind the heater box. Just imagine it without the wire. DAH!

This illustrates how much I cut out of the tunnel area, the piece on the right is what was removed. 

The dimensions of the cut were: 15 1/4" across the widest point, 10 3/8 across the rear near the

hole for the shifter, the total cut was about 24" long.

We've now cut out the floor tunnel and made the new floor board cover to build up

the floor to the proper height to cover the new TKO and shifter area. As you can see, the new 

replacement tunnel raises the floor about 2" but the total height of the panel is about 6" high 

including enough material to weld on both inside and underneath, for added floor strength.

In the above photos you can see the new tunnel cover which is much taller and I have 

re-braced it using a double set of 2" straps welded in place to further reinforce the floor 

and tunnel area. We used screws to hold it in place initially then later removed them

and welded the holes in solid. The tunnel itself is welded both inside and out. And the 

brace is welded to the tunnel as well. SOLID! No removing this puppy anymore! No

need. 

The trany mount bracket was made from 2" tubular steel with a second piece of flat

iron inserted inside of it (welded in place, inside, to give further support) and boxed

on the ends. When installed it is actually held in place by several bolts on the ends

which go completely through the side frame rails and the entire unit is easily removed.

The photo here shows the end supports welded to the frame rails. Bolts screw in

here, through the entire frame and into the trany brace on each end. Very H.D. 

Moving onto to other things. Such as: INSULATION, REPAIRING RUSTED

AREAS and  SOUND deadening.

The front floor are on the passenger side need a bit of attention so it was

cut out and replaced. As was the rear floor pans on both sides. The above

photos show a couple of the repairs. 

Much care was taken to any areas that showed signs of stress, such as in the rear of the

care, where the rear shocks were mounted. As seen in this photo, we welded up some

stress cracks to make sure they didn't continue to crack when subjected to the higher

horsepower of the new 347 stroker. This is right where the rear shocks mount inside the

cab area.

I thought since the interior was being gutted, we might as well replace the firewall 

insulation pad and do whatever could be done to better insulate the interior and

eliminate as much road noise and heat, as well. SO.....

I replaced the OLD torn up firewall insulation pad, which as you can see was letting

in a rather LARGE amount of engine noise and heat. 

As for the floors, I guarantee this 65 Mustang is gonna ride quite! We took carpet 

padding from the back of a Fox Bodied Mustang and stripped the backing off of it

and added it on top of two more layers. This accomplished a couple of things. One

it raised the floor level up a bit so the stock preformed carpeting will now fit the

hump and tunnel, even though I have raised it 2". Plus it is assured to make it ride

a LOT quieter. After we got the complete carpet installed, you almost couldn't

tell the floor had been altered at all. 

Here it is ALL done!

This shows the inside of the doors which we put some double backed aluminum insulation

I got from Summit Racing, which we cut to size and glued to the back of the doors behind

the glass. It's called COOL IT MAT and comes in 48" X 48" sheets for $50.95 per sheet

from Summit. I ordered 4 sheets to also use on the firewall, floors and doors as you'll see

later on. ITEM # THE-14110 from Summit.

We pressure washed the engine compartment prior to freshening up the paint in that 

area. Notice we used aluminum foil to cover the items we didn't want painted. It's a lot

easier than masking tape. 

COME BACK for updates. I'll be adding more photos as I do more things to it. 

UPDATE: 

I changed the clutch cable setup to HYDRAULIC, go HERE to see that UPGRADE!

New Hydraulic clutch setup from John's Mustang's.

USED & NEW extra PARTS for SALE!

(some take-offs, leftovers & misc)

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That's it for now folks.

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